The Sand & Stain System
How To Prep, Finish, & Maintain A Deck / Fence So It Never Blisters, Cracks, Or Peels
Sand + Stain + Maintain
Part 1: Sanding
Part 2: Staining
3. Maintenance
Here is the Sand & Stain System— a three part process we use to prep, finish, and maintain a deck so it never peels.
Regardless if you are finishing brand new wood, previously unfinished gray / aged wood, or restoring old previously stained wood, the basic process is the same:
Sand + Stain + Maintain
P.S. We walk the talk…
This is the exact system we’ve use in our own wood restoration business for years with exceptional results.
We’re sharing our methods with you so you can achieve the same results all in one convenient place.
The Sand & Stain System Explained
Part 1: Sanding
Like most projects, the process begins with the proper prep work. A heavy sanding brings the wood back to its original tone while opening pores to allow new stain to properly penetrate the timber.
We recommend using 60 or 80 grit sander paper for softwoods like red or white cedar and 40 or 50 grit for specialty hardwoods like Ipe or Thermory Ash.
It’s crucial to sand off all previous films (thick stains, sealers, paint, etc.) for an even finish. With transparent or translucent stains, you’ll see everything through it, so make sure to get this step right or you’ll have to start the prepping process all over again for a consistent look.
Even brand new deck installs still need to be sanded to remove the waxy mill sheen that prevents stain to properly penetrate and tend to make the colour look lighter.
Keep in mind that wood is natural and each plank may slightly vary in colour (ie. some lighter or darker) with transparent stains.
For an in depth explanation plus equipment list about prep sanding, click the button below.
Part 2: Staining
Next, the fun part: the stain finish coat! We recommend only using thin, transparent oil-based penetrating stains. Thicker water based and even hybrid stains tend to peel. Once this happens, you’ll have to start over in the process and sand again before reapplying.
True penetrating oils should be applied thinly with a ‘less-is-more’ attitude. Hardwood oils are typically thicker and the excess stain will need to be wiped off with a rag.
Most penetrating oil stains are to be used as a one-coat application. They will need to be re-coated later to prevent premature fading, but applying two coats at one time is not beneficial as the wood will already be saturated which can lead to excess stain on the surface of your wood which can turn into a shiny patch, and in the worst case be thick enough to blister.
Stain can be applied with a fat brush called a staining block, sprayer with back brushing, or a rag or a lambs wool applicator. We don’t recommend using a roller with a penetrating oil.
For an in depth explanation plus equipment list about finish staining, click the button below.
3. Maintenance
After all the time, effort, and money put into prep sanding and stain finishing, you want to make sure your wood can stay in top shape for years to come.
True penetrating oil stains will never peel, but they do, however, fade quite quickly. The good news is you can reapply as often as you like (or as needed) without having to sand again provided prep sanding was done properly and maintenance re-coats have not been neglected for too long.
With proper sanding combined with a true penetrating oil, you are now free to re-coat your deck with more finish stain as needed. Your individual reapplication schedule will vary depending on your geographic location, unique climate, and exposure of deck to the elements.
Typically, you would re-coat once a year, or every two years in hidden / protected setting, or twice a year in extreme weather and sun exposure.
Even though you don’t need to sand again, you will likely need to lightly wash and / or brighten your wood before re-coating.